Silas Rossi, IFMGA

As a mountain guide and alpine climber, I spend a lot of time considering the “what if” of a worst-case scenario in the backcountry. While I work diligently on the prevention side of the equation, I’m sure to always have a good emergency plan in place before heading out. And, like it or not, in this day and age it is important that emergency communication be part of that plan.

What you bring, of course, depends on where you are going and how long you’ll be there. A satellite phone, VHF/UHF radio, SPOT, and PLB are four commonly used devices for times when you are without cell service. They each have advantages and disadvantages to consider when choosing.

Satellite phone – While expensive and heavy, SAT phones are the most user-friendly and reliable form of 2-way communication available. Depending on how long you’re away, consider how you’ll recharge the battery. $500-$1000 + minutes.

VHF/UHF radio – 2-way VHF/UHF radios have long been used by outdoor professionals and work well for inter-group communication as well as reaching people outside your group. Because they don’t utilize satellites, it’s necessary to have line of sight to another radio operator or a repeater operating on the same frequency. You’ll need to be in tune with other operators in the same area in order for these to work! Radios are a bit tricky to use and require a HAM license to operate. For more info on amateur radio visit: www.arrl.org. $100-$400.

Personal Locator Beacon – Although only allowing the user to send a distress call, Dual Frequency Personal Locator Beacons are the lightest and most reliable form of emergency communication available. The newest versions weigh 4 ounces, have a 5-year battery (turn it on only to request help), and are bombproof. There is no subscription fee, but they are somewhat pricey at $250-$400 for only 5 years. You can rent a PLB for about $75/week at www.plbrentals.com. Although spartan in function, PLB’s are your best bet for reaching help when it is needed.

SPOT II – Gaining popularity recently among recreational users and guide services, these devices are somewhat similar to Dual Frequency PLB’s, but use private (commercial) satellites and emergency response center to relay a signal to appropriate government emergency services (PLB’s use government operated satellites and emergency response center). The SPOT II also allows “check-in”, “tracking”, and “non-emergency request for help” functions. There is a yearly subscription fee ($100) in addition to purchasing the device ($120), making the 5 year cost a hefty $620. SPOT devices are also limited geographically.

Every one of these devices is a good tool when used properly and within it’s respective parameters. Choose wisely and enjoy your next adventure!

Silas Rossi is a climber and IFMGA guide based in New Paltz, NY. You can contact him at Silas@Alpine-Logic.com or by going to www.Alpine-Logic.com

The Sum Of Its Parts (Alaska Grade V, AI6, M7, A2, 4,000’)
Heavy Mettle (Alaska Grade V, WI5+R, M6, A0, 4600’)
Expedition Report First Release – May 1st, 2012
Peter Doucette

Silas Rossi and I just returned from the Ruth Gorge where we established two new climbs on Mount Bradley 9,104’. The first, completed on April 17th, was a 49 hour (camp to camp) effort that resulted in “The Sum of Its Parts,” Alaska Grade V, AI6, M7, A2. The route climbs 4,000’ to the summit on Bradley’s southern aspect via an obvious large cleft just right of “The Gift” (Blitz-House-Twight, 1998).
Our line begins on a steep ice and mixed ramp that leads into a beautiful mixed corner that is capped by a roof at ~800.’ Mixed climbing to M7, and some creative aid out the roof allowed us to gain the major chimney system that continues the full height of the wall.The climb meets the west ridge just 300 vertical feet below the summit. After leaving camp at 4:00 AM on April 15th, we topped out Bradley at 9:00 PM on the 16th with the sun low on the horizon and promptly began our descent via the Bradley/Wake Col. The descent lasted through the night and deposited us back as base camp at 5:00 AM on the 17th. A faulty stove added to the appeal of an immediate return to basecamp.
The quality of the climbing was exceptional and offered many varied challenges. Because of the nature of the cleft we followed, however, route finding was not one of these challenges. “The Sum Of Its Parts” was climbed in 28 pitches, to a brilliant rope-stretching finish, we dubbed “The Mind Shaft” due to its straight-forward appearance but mentally jarring exit. One of the climb’s defining sections included climbing the left wall of a wild chimney for 500’ that went at AI6 (AI5+ R). These pitches involved past-vertical “snice,” nearly show stopping anchoring, and a fair number of exclamations by both of us on lead. It was one of the most amazing single features we encountered on the trip.

Ample rest, a fresh foot of snow, and casual ski touring days affirmed our intentions on an impossible-to-miss line of ice that we’d stared at from camp since our arrival. On April 25th, we clicked into our skis at 2:00 AM to approach the striking line with a sizeable rack and plans to beat the early morning sun on the lower portion of this independent line located on the north side of Bradley’s East Ridge. Our second route, “Heavy Mettle,” Alaska Grade V, WI5+R, M6, A0, 4600’ begins by ascending the major couloir through short bands of rock (M6), between the prominent East Ridge and “Welcome to Alaska” (Charon-Faure-Moulin-Ponson, 2002).

From high in the couloir we traversed left into a large corner system just below half height on the wall. Our route follows this corner for 1800’ of “snice” and water ice spackled into the back of the corner to eventually meet the East Ridge at ~8300’, (800’ below Bradley’s summit). Upon meeting the east ridge we continued up and over the summit by what we felt was the path of least resistance. This included one rappel to cross a gap in the ridge and avoid large cornices.

We climbed “Heavy Mettle,” basecamp to basecamp (below Mt. Dickey) in 43.5 hours with a 3 hour “rest stop” between the hours of 4:00 and 7:00 AM on the 26th. We summited at 1:00 PM and again descended the ridgeline, west, down through the Bradley/Wake Col, below the south face and eventually back up the Ruth Gorge to camp. We returned to camp at 9:30 pm. The final eight hours of post-holing reaffirmed our belief that skiing is a far superior method of travel no matter how rewarding the line of post holes looks over your shoulder.

“The Sum Of Its Parts” and “Heavy Mettle’’ are excellent and sustained in their quality. An incredible stretch of good weather and a deep desire to make the most of our first trip to the Ruth Gorge contributed to great outcomes. Silas and I are extremely grateful for the support of a 2012 Polartec Challenge Grant, and the sponsorship of Sterling Ropes, Outdoor Research, Brooks-Range Mountaineering, and Snap MyLife. We thank everyone for the generous backing. Also, we’d like to thank friends in the climbing community for sharing their experience, photos, and other helpful information. This trip would not have been possible without everyone’s contributions.

Thank You,

Peter Doucette
www.mountainsenseguides.com

Silas Rossi
www.Alpine-Logic.com